A day in the life

Carla is writing her autobiography for her Spanish class and Mia is asleep, so I thought I would share some of my impressions from our time thus far in Oaxaca.

Life is busy here - Oaxaca is a very urban city. And we live in the heart of it. I feel safer here than I do in most parts of the United States that I’ve visited, but I feel like I always have to be “on” so I don’t get run over by a car, and that awareness is heightened with a 2 year old in tow. Pedestrians don’t have the right of way and traffic is insane. (I do believe that they yield to us more since we usually are pushing Mia in a stroller – if we were walking without her, I am sure I’d be counting my nine lives!) Oaxaca is a city of less than half million, though it seems far larger, much in part to the fact that people are outside all the time. Days and nights are spent in the plazas, restaurants, or parks.

I love the Oaxacan culture – so festive and celebratory. And we are at the height of it with Christmas just days away. There have been Posadas, performances, dancing, concerts, and special events. I’ve never seen such preparation as I have here for Christmas – and not in a consumerism sort of way – but a reverent celebration. Every business has a nativity scene in the window, piñatas are hanging everywhere, poinsettias are abundant, and everywhere you go there is decoration.

I believe this time away is more about being a part of Oaxaca, rather than just visiting it. We have established a bit of a routine to our days – breakfast at 8, then Mia and I walk Carla to school at 9, and we play, explore the city, drop off laundry, buy diapers, search for bubbles or find the church where the bells are ringing, etc – until noon when Mia goes down for her nap. She naps until 2 pm and then we wait for Carla to return from school, and eat the main meal of the day at 2 pm together. This week, we’ve been heading back to Carla’s school at 3 for piñata-making until 5. Thankfully, we have had the opportunity to get out of Oaxaca, too – Monte Alban and small villages where they make black pottery, do rug weaving, and albrijes (wood carvings). Those day trips out of the city have offered respite from the city life.

Our home stay has been wonderful – our host, Yolanda, embodies what it means to offer hospitality. She is a delightful woman who works hard to keep her guests comfortable and well-fed. Our rooms are cleaned 3 times a week; breakfast and lunch (comida) are exquisite. And, she is patient with me as I struggle to understand everything she says. Anything we need, she does her best to accommodate. And, we have other students who are studying at the same school as Carla staying in the house (more of a B&B, actually) with us – and we have served as community for each other.

And, a few random odds and ends to share:

**Mia has adapted like a champ – she knows not to throw her toilet paper in the toilet but rather in the garbage that sits next to all toilets as the plumbing system can’t handle it; she knows that after she washes her hands using tap water she also “gets” to use hand sanitizer, just in case; she brushes and rinses her teeth using bottled water; her “baths” are her standing in a bucket of 2 inches of water since we don’t have a bath here; she has eaten more meat this week than she has in her entire life – which I think is good to offset the energy she is expending during the day. (photo at left is Mia working diligently on our pinata)

**Most of the local people’s English is about as good as my Spanish, which is poor at best. I make an effort to attempt to communicate with sales people, vendors, and people on the street with the little Spanish I know, but the problem lies in their response – I think they must assume that I actually can understand what they are saying in response, so I usually do my best.

**We wear earplugs at night to minimize the sound of traffic, the local marching band that passes through at 1 am, the fireworks, and church bells.

But it’s been an amazing experience thus far and I’m grateful to be here. Stay tuned for a report from "Noche de Rabanos" on Friday - Night of the Radishes. (Who knew that you could celebrate radishes?)